Here is a picture of the actual leaking bolt from the back bottom of the toilet. A leaky toilet tank never feels like a simple problem to deal with. I don't get it. Remove water line from back of toilet. Remove the top cover on the toilet’s holding tank and set aside. 3. 1 has broken when I tried to turn it, the other won't loosen and when it does, the bolt moves at the same time as the nut ! Tighten the wing nuts down until the tank and bowl touch. Disconnect the toilet supply line from the toilet. Flush the toilet to empty all of the water in the toilet’s holding tank. Toilet tank leaking on the floor after removing and reinserting flush valve. It only leaks down the bolts that connect the reservoir to the bowl. To fix a toilet that has the same problem as above: First turn off water. While a nut cracker would be difficult to apply to a wingnut, much less under a toilet tank, a pair of locking pliers or similar "high force" tool should be able to break (crush) the plastic nut so you can get the rusted bolts out. If I did the sequence in reverse and tightened the assembly to the plate, and then the plate to the toilet. This is usually located on the bottom left hand side of the toilet’s holding tank. Flush toilet and sponge out water from tank. As the water begins filling the toilet’s tank, check for leaks around the new valve. 2. toilet - rusted wingnuts I need to separate the cistern from the bowl to replace the doughnut ring. The wingnuts securing the 2 parts are rusted solid. Flush the toilet (to remove as much water as possible) then undo these wing nuts, take the lid off the cistern and see if there are a couple of screws holding it back to the wall. Then, see the wing nut next to the water inlet? I replaced the guts of my toilet (second one) with standard Fluidm**ster replacement kit. If leaks occur when you flush the tank, the problem is the “Tank to Bowl” Gasket. You may require a smaller or larger gasket to seal the leak. Related. The ridge is about ¼â€ higher porcelain either the tank or bowl surface that the other rests on for stability. Tighten the wing nuts down until the bowl and tank touch. I then tightened the wing nuts to secure the plate. It does not leak between the bowl and the reservoir. The main bathroom toilet had silicon all around the join and the owner said there was a crack and it had been leaking, he said he wanted to save it. Make sure the tank and bowl are touching the “ridge”. If there is, undo these. Use a sponge to absorb the remaining water out of the holding tank. When I took the cistern off 3 pieces fell off the pan beneath, it was not just cracked but broken and held together with silicon. Remove the 2 or 3 bolts holding toilet … Shut off the water at the valve and drain the water from the toilet tank, as indicated above. If there is a leak, shut off the water, empty the lines, and unscrew the valve’s compression nut. Use a plunger to force out any water that remains in the bowl. I gently moved the assemble as far forward towards the toilet seat as possible and then tightened the knobs. There should be another one on the opposite side of the cistern too. More advanced phases of curing a toilet leaking from the base will require moving the toilet itself. I would pull the assembly away from the toilet and it would leak. Some toilet models do not have the ridge; instead, they have a rubber support to give the tank some stability. I've replaced the flange gasket several times. Whether water is leaking into the bowl or onto the floor, some plumbing work will be required to fix it. Remember to place the sponge rubber gasket before placing the tank in the bowl. 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